Tuesday, 5 November 2013
a place to wait
Another day I was talking with Carmen, that the tradition of punctuality developed in Norther areas not without a reason. It sucks to wait for someone in - 10 ºC. And the weather in places, like Lithuania, Germany and Sweden, gets much worse. Thus, punctuality in the North is Human obligation (in contrast to human right not to freeze to death), respect and the basis for good health condition.
Meanwhile, temperature on Java dictates very different story. The number of 30 on the scale of thermometer also suggests how many minutes (at least) one has to wait for another one. It's OK to be late. More than that, the abstraction and relativity of time are social norms in a local habitat. If something ought to happen, it will happen, whether in an hour or in a week. And if it has happened, well it was not meant to.
One may say that it is the same with Arab Standard time, Italian Standard time, etc. People tend to care less about their and others schedules in the warm places. You don't have to be Doctor in sociology to observe that its rather nice to have another cup of espresso while one waits for a friend in the stunning Piazza del Duome, Firenze.
Nevertheless this entry not about Mediterranean or even much bigger Southern picture. It is about life in Indonesia. There are many features that distinguish Javanese people from the bigger picture of what in this entry I call normalities of flexible time. One of the is the avoidance of confrontation and overwhelming need of public politeness. My friend Carmen already wrote about the need of smile. People close their eyes here in so many occasions just to avoid the extremely unpleasant situation of a direct conflict. According to an Australian friend who I met recently and who lives on Java for a number of years, Javanese linguistic procedures and long exchanges of formal and socially normal phrases function as a tool and a space to deal with the situations of disagreement. Otherwise, these situation can grow into an open disputes, which are not very welcoming.
The number of 141 mln. inhabitant of the Java island has to be added next to the features that I touched upon previously. Hence, here we have a situation where people live extremely huge proximity, abstract time and the intreralational sham. This means that there are almost the infinite number of the little crisis of conflicts that are constantly postponed. It is rather easier to convince yourself that you deal with the "hot topic" later. Furthermore, it also raises a chance that a situation will solve itself and your agency in "the nasty business" will not be required anymore. However, this delay of any social conflict also defers large about of other things that could and should be done now. And here we live in a vicious circle, where the socially deviant frustration, caused by constant state of delay is hidden under the social implication of future action, that postpones even more things that have to be done and creates more anxiety. Yet, if you ignore it and learn to live with it, you will find yourself in the completely stressless environment, where sun is yellow and life is mellow.
Oddly, I start to feel that I cannot live in this relaxed and easy-going time of tomorrow and the momentum of Baumanish past screams and begs for stressful situation now. Kundera's of "The Unbearable Lightness of Being" also fits my stay in Indonesia very well.
Saturday, 19 October 2013
Karimunjawa
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Jepara harbor |
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Ibu on board |
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15,000 for a watermelon |
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A house |
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Lady Jesus |
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Fishing boat |
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Karimun |
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Captain |
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Layer Cake |
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Same boat, other island |
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I love fish, Indonesians love photos |
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new settlers in Cemara Kecil island |
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Home for 3 nights on a deserted island. |
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Geertz please!!! |
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If there is a spectacle, there must be spectators. |
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We |
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Me |
Wednesday, 2 October 2013
Thursday, 26 September 2013
Singapūro miražas / Painting on the mist in Singapore
Taigi, po pusvalandžio (vėl) peršaldytame metro aš išlipau netoli Marina įlankos - beveik dešimt kartų už Lietuvą mažesnės miesto-valstybės centro. Nors savaitė gerokai per trumpas laikotarpis susidaryti pagrįstą nuomonę apie bent kurį regioną (ypač besidriekiantį per tūkstančius kilometrus, kelias religijas, kalbas ir tūkstantmetines kultūrų istorijas), tačiau prieš akis mačiau visiškai kitokią pietryčių Aziją. Prieš akis stūksojo neo-liberalistinis laisvosios rinkos rojus su pasaulį prie bankroto privedusių HSBC, City ir kitų bankų dangoraižiais. Jie tarsi viduramžių miesto siena supa Louis Vuitton, Prada, Bvlgari, Breitling... merkantilinę idilę.
Alkio vedamas besižvalgydamas praėjau pro prašmatniausią prekybos centrą, kurio parduotuvių sąrašas nepadarytų gėdos nei Viktorijos Bekham, nei Paris Hilton darbotvarkei. Tokiokms varguolių pramogoms kaip H&M ar McDonalds vietos 'Marina Bay Sands'. Po 20 min. be prarasdamas viltį pavakarieniaut vėl išlindau iš speigo į šiltą Pietryčių Azijos vakarą, kuriame mane pasitiko į įlankos vandenis bespoksanti minia. Nieko nelaukdamas nusprendžiau, jog savo galva mastyti neverta ir prisijungiau prie minios. Po 5 min. buko spoksojimo į niekur Singapūro simuliakrai įsikūnijo į pasirodymą, kuris suteikė tiksliausią alegoriją šiandien mąstant apie tai ką mačiau ten prieš kelias mėnesį. Staiga vandens paviršius atsistojo ir laimingos muziko fone pasidengė vaizdais apie laimingą gyvenimą, džiaugsmą ir santaiką. Po gerų 10 min. prozaku atsiduodantį miražai tapo monotoniški ir nuobodūs, todėl likusią reginio dalį stengiausi įžiūrėti kas vyksta už miražo sienos ir kaip ta siena atsirado. Kaip ir tądien, taip ir šiandien man labiausiai įdomu kas vyksta už Singapūro miražo ir kaip tas miražas sukurtas?
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I landed in Singapore with a feeling that the combination of a tropical climate outside and a sub-arctic climate inside had hit my immune system like a train. Unfortunately, my expectation that I would feel better after a short power-nap in a hostel turned out to be a fool's hope. Nevertheless, I though that staying in a bed for the next 36 hours that I had till my flight to Jakarta would be a waste of opportunity to see (post)modern Asian reincarnation of Mediterranean Renaissance city-state.
A further destruction of my health during a half an hour ride to a metro stop next the downtown in freezing Singapore tube was a reasonable price of the experiences the tiny tax haven. And although a week is a way to short period of time to obtain an educated opinion about the region that lasts throughout hundreds of kilometers and a number of religions, traditions and languages, I was positive the south east Asia that was in front of my eyes at that time was different from what I had experienced before. I descried neo-liberal paradise of free market. The wall of the skyscrapers of HSBC, City and other diabolical enterprises, which had piloted the world into the complete financial meltdown stood strong around flamboyant and consumerist joy of Louis Vuitton, Prada, Bvlgari, Breitling...
The hunger (for food) guided me into the posh shopping mall with the list store that would delight even Victoria Beckham and Paris Hilton. H&M, McDonalds and other pleasures of the poor were prohibited in the Marina Bay Sands. Twenty minutes later I was loosing the hope to have a dinner, thus I went out from the Siberian land of money back into the warm Singaporean evening. Immediately after I had spotted a sizable crowd of tourist I decided to lose my mind and joint it. Few minutes later the spectacle started. In the ambiance of cheerful, yet calm music the surface of the Marina Bay stood and covered itself with the views of happy lives and the peace in the world. After ten minutes the repetitive mirages became rather predictable and boring, hence tried to look through and beyond the surface of the spectacle. One month after the night in Singapore, I know that the most interesting and challenging question about the city-state, which stays in my mind is the deconstruction of the simulacra of the happy and obedient society. What is behind the misty surface and how it is build and sustained in the first place?

Monday, 16 September 2013
Žalioji princesė ir vandenų dvasios / The Green Princess and Ocean Spirits.
Vietiniai Džavos salos gyventojai tiki, jog Indijos vandenyno bangose, kurios skalauja pietinius salos krantus gyvena Žalioji princesė. Visi, kurie neapdairiai džiausis bangomis (o ypač vilkėdami žalius rūbus) bus paglemžti į vandenyno gelmes. O jeigu princesė viena pati nespės pačiupti, jai pagalbos ranką čiumpant poilsiautoją už kojos išties dvasios, kurių knibždėte knibžda vandenyse. Todėl vietiniai gyventojai bijo ir vengia vandenyno ir jo kranto. Tik populiacijos sprogimo dėka (Džavos sala yra tankiausiai apgyvendinta (iš visų 141 milijonas gyventojų visame archipelage) vietiniai okupavo rytinį krantą, kuris dar prieš 20 metų buvo visiškai tuščias.
Nei Princeses, nei dvasių aš nemačiau, tačiau mačiau kelių metrų aukščio bangas ir jaučiau sroves, kurios įbridus vos iki kelių lyg pančiai traukia į beribį vandenyną. Šios bangos ir srovės sudaužę į kranto uolas visas mano viltis, jog bene kas dieną turėsiu progą pasiplaukiot (juk krantas mažiau nei 40 km nuo mano durų).
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Native Javanese believe that The Green Princess dwells deep in Indian Ocean, next to the south shore of the Java island. She waits and grabs everyone who enjoys the waters irresponsibly or/and dress in green. Even if one slips from the hands of the princess, the ocean is full of spirits that are eager to grab an oblivion swimmer. Hence, locals are scared witless by the Ocean. The south shore of the Java island became inhabited only during the last 20 years. Even the fear of the Green Princess and the spirits could not stop the massive migration to the region in the island of 141 millions.
I have not seen the princess, nor the spirits. Yet I saw waves, which were few meters high and I felt drags, which tried to pull me into Indian Ocean. Those waves smashed all my hopes that I will be swimming daily.
Pantai Parangritis (mažiau nei 40 km nuo mano durų / less than 40 km from my room):
Pantai Baron (Pats neraliausias paplūdymį, kuris dėl supančių uolų netraukia į vandenyną net įbridus gan toli. Todėl galima džiaugtis bangomis. / The most amazing beach. One can safely go and dive under waves, because the beach located in a small bay, hence the drag to the ocean almost doesn't exists.) :
Pantai Kukup (vaizdas iš viebučio kuriame per naktį apsistojom / view from the hotel where we stayed over a night):
Pantai Ngobaran (ir induistų šventykla/ and Hindu Temple):
Nei Princeses, nei dvasių aš nemačiau, tačiau mačiau kelių metrų aukščio bangas ir jaučiau sroves, kurios įbridus vos iki kelių lyg pančiai traukia į beribį vandenyną. Šios bangos ir srovės sudaužę į kranto uolas visas mano viltis, jog bene kas dieną turėsiu progą pasiplaukiot (juk krantas mažiau nei 40 km nuo mano durų).
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Native Javanese believe that The Green Princess dwells deep in Indian Ocean, next to the south shore of the Java island. She waits and grabs everyone who enjoys the waters irresponsibly or/and dress in green. Even if one slips from the hands of the princess, the ocean is full of spirits that are eager to grab an oblivion swimmer. Hence, locals are scared witless by the Ocean. The south shore of the Java island became inhabited only during the last 20 years. Even the fear of the Green Princess and the spirits could not stop the massive migration to the region in the island of 141 millions.
I have not seen the princess, nor the spirits. Yet I saw waves, which were few meters high and I felt drags, which tried to pull me into Indian Ocean. Those waves smashed all my hopes that I will be swimming daily.
Pantai Baron (Pats neraliausias paplūdymį, kuris dėl supančių uolų netraukia į vandenyną net įbridus gan toli. Todėl galima džiaugtis bangomis. / The most amazing beach. One can safely go and dive under waves, because the beach located in a small bay, hence the drag to the ocean almost doesn't exists.) :
Pantai Kukup (vaizdas iš viebučio kuriame per naktį apsistojom / view from the hotel where we stayed over a night):
Pantai Ngobaran (ir induistų šventykla/ and Hindu Temple):
Monday, 9 September 2013
Prisiminimai iš Tailando / Memories from Thailand
Koh Samui:
Phuket Island, Pantong Beach
Apie tai ka pagrindinėj miestelio gatvėj vyko sutemus ir apie tai ką Lonely Planet gidas pristato kaip:
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I will tell you next time about the events which took place in the main street after sunset and the ambiance, which is described by Lonely Planet as:
P. S. I hope the guys who stole my camera will burn in the hell for eternity, with pineapples up in their asses!
Phuket Island, Pantong Beach
Apie tai ka pagrindinėj miestelio gatvėj vyko sutemus ir apie tai ką Lonely Planet gidas pristato kaip:
A place of concrete and silicone, and moral and gender bending, Patong is a simply a free for all.papasakosiu kitą kartą.
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I will tell you next time about the events which took place in the main street after sunset and the ambiance, which is described by Lonely Planet as:
A place of concrete and silicone, and moral and gender bending, Patong is a simply a free for all.
P. S. I hope the guys who stole my camera will burn in the hell for eternity, with pineapples up in their asses!
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